It is hard to deny that the trigger is one of the main elements in pistol shooting and, after the mind, is the most important element by a long way! Learning to manage your trigger release is essential to scoring highly and consistently.
Are you getting a good main score but it is destroyed by flyers? Finding that your arm moves at the moment of release, or the pistol moves? This is all caused by trigger release but the good news is we can reduce this by being aware, watching the sights and training to release the trigger SMOOTHLY.
Let's read that again: SMOOTHLY
As part of the shot process, we raise the pistol, breathe out as we lower, and end up in the aiming area. We look at the sights, not the black, come to the second stage on the trigger, a fraction more load and we release the trigger.
If we are in a calm frame of mind, and concentrating on the sights, we will release the trigger smoothly and subconsciously when the black is aligned with the aiming point. This is a GOOD shot. No matter where it lands on the paper, you can pat yourself on the back.
Look at the sights!
The reason everyone tells you to look at your sights and not at the target is because we will be too slow if we consciously aim and fire the pistol at "the right time" - by the time we have pulled the trigger the gun will have moved off target, and by consciously pulling the trigger we will usually have a rough trigger pull. We need to area aim, concentrating on the front sight and the sight alignment, holding under the black and with a smooth release we will have consistent groups and therefore consistent scoring.
Make the gun fit you.
The basic setup on the gun is to have a grip that fits you, and delivers your trigger finger onto the trigger blade in a comfortable, consistent way, and keeps the finger clear of the grip.
The trigger should be set square to the pistol's action and at a distance from the grip that allows the centre of the first pad of the trigger finger to fall on the trigger blade at right angles to the pistol's barrel.
As far as your pistol will allow, the trigger break should be crisp and at the correct ISSF legal weight. A good balance of the first and second stage of trigger pull should be set, with a first stage length set to suit the user. Beware of setting the first stage too heavy as you may release the shot too early and not have a fine feel for the second stage.
Set the trigger stop so that there is some ‘after travel’ on the trigger blade after the second stage has broken, which will prevent movement in the pistol by absorbing a less than smooth release.
The reason for the above is to have a grip that the trigger finger will not disturb when the shot is released, and to have both the trigger blade and the finger at right angles to the barrel of the pistol, so as far as possible the barrel will not be pulled off axis during the trigger release. A tiny movement of the muzzle will result in the pellet being off the main group at the target.
Remember, 99% of all outlying shots can be traced to trigger release, with 99% of those being traced to an attempt by the conscious mind to take over the process because we are under pressure from the terrible consequences of not making a tight group.
How to release the trigger in training and competition
Carry out your shot process and arrive to hold in the aiming area and focus on the sights. As you come into this area, take up pressure on the second stage of the trigger, and concentrate on the sights. You should find the trigger will release by itself as the subconscious puts that tiny amount of extra pressure on the finger to trip the sear.
If you find the pistol does not release, after your hold time is up and you will begin to lose your steadiness of hold, put the gun down. Remember there is no need to hang on, just put the gun down.
Re-cock the action. This is important as it resets the trigger sear which may have been half pulled out of its bent, and it also resets your shot process to start again. Even with an electronic trigger, it is a good idea to reset this way.
Start again, focusing on the sights and taking up pressure on the trigger. Remember to focus on the sights and allow your subconscious to do the release.
Continue this way. Don't worry if you have to put the gun down loads of times, in fact the more times you put the gun down the better your training has been - well done, pat yourself on the back. Remember, there is still a ten in the gun if you put it down.
If the trigger is still not releasing, start the pressure on the trigger blade a little stronger in the hold area. Do not pull the trigger, this will result in a rough release and movement in the gun.
Sometimes in competition you will experience difficulty in releasing the trigger. This will happen and is not something to worry about, it just means you care about the competition and what you are doing. If you are shooting in the qualification round, you will usually have plenty of time to put the gun down and start again
If this does not work, sit down and visualise an easy release. Talk to and instruct your subconscious, let yourself know you want to release the trigger and that you know how to do so. Don't get angry or frustrated, this will make the situation worse.
If you really do have to get angry or frustrated, do so in your conscious mind. You can internally scream, shout etc etc. Do not abuse yourself. Do not bang your gun on the bench or show outward signs of frustration. Then take two breaths, and go back to instructing your subconscious. Go back to the firing line and dry fire a few shots to get back in the way of it before starting again.
Use a mental “noise” like saying to yourself “Squeeez” as you put pressure on the trigger. I use the word “Smooooth” as I take up the pressure.
If you have time constraints, as in a final for example, the first thing to realise is you usually have more time than you think. Try this on a stop watch and see if you can make two or even three attempts to shoot in the 50 seconds available to you. Do this often in training so you know how long 50 seconds is and how much time you have.
If you really do run out of time and the trigger has not gone yet, there are some ways to work this.
The first is to make sure you hold the grip very gently especially with the thumb, little and third finger. The pistol is supported with the second finger only, and if you have got stuck on the trigger you are likely to alter the gun position with tension from the other fingers.
This is important: if your trigger and grip are correct the trigger finger will have minimum effect on the gun movement. Pressure from the fingers and thumb can cause shots to land outside the main group. Train to shoot with just the Second finger holding the gun, once you get used to this you will be more aware of your other fingers and how much pressure they are exerting on the grip.
Finally if the trigger is really frozen and still not releasing, try letting the trigger back out through both stages, (i.e. take the pressure off and let the trigger go back to its starting position) then pull through all the stages in one go, and deliberately release the trigger. This is drastic but if you are really stuck it should get the trigger to go.
Please note - this is still a controlled release! It is still SMOOTH. You can not expect a tight shot on the ten but a shot on the card is better than a lost shot. Remember, you know how to pull the trigger! Allow your subconscious to complete the action for you.
Training your trigger
Dry Fire.
First and foremost is dry fire training. I shoot against a blank wall with the muzzle a few inches away from it. Focus all your attention on the sights. There should be no movement in the sights as the trigger is released. Standing at this distance from a blank wall will allow you to really focus on the sights and nothing else. It is important to wear your normal shooting kit including shoes, glasses, and ear defenders.
Quality is more important than length of time. I will do 15 minutes on a blank wall and 15 minutes with a small dot on the wall as part of normal training. If I am staying away for work etc and cannot shoot on a range I will do more, up to an hour. But don't do so much that you lose focus.
Shoot on a Vertical Line.
Mark a black line on the back of a card. Make the width the ring you would aspire to keep your shots in. If you usually keep most of your shots in the 8 ring with some outliers, make the bar the width of the 8 ring. This will mean your trigger control has to be good or you will have shots outside it. Note your group will tend to be vertical as there is no horizontal marker.
Shoot on a Blank card.
This is similar to shooting on a line. You do not have the round bull to worry about and can concentrate on the sights alone. Group size does not matter, just that you are grouping your shots. Concentrate on your sights, smooth shooting and getting a group with no outliers. Because there is no reference point your group will usually be slightly vertical.
Break up your shots.
This one is very important for me as I will normally have one outlier per ten shots. To counteract this I will only lay out three pellets to shoot. Once I have shot them I will put the gun down, and lay out another three pellets with my shooting hand to make sure I break up the shot process.
This serves to allow my concentration to go to something else, then back to shooting. As I can only shoot 9 shots or 12 shots, I avoid the rhythm of shooting in ten shot groups.
Positive Affirmation.
Your subconscious works by receiving an instruction from your conscious to carry out an action, like we demonstrated with the shoe lace tying experiment. A positive affirmation is when we instruct repeatedly what we wish our subconscious to carry out. For me, flyers mainly due to trigger pull are spoiling my score. I will not be able to cut them out completely, but I will be able to reduce them to a level where my score is showing its true potential.
My affirmation is to write out every day in my dairy the following:
“I watch the sights so I can shoot tight groups”
“I shoot tight groups when I shoot in competition, I perform smoothly, that's like me”
“I shoot scores of 570 and above in competition, that's like me”
“I enjoy shooting in competition, and get high scores as a result of shooting tight groups”
Notice you should make a statement like it will happen, and it is happening e.g. write “I am smooth on the trigger” rather than “I will be smooth on the trigger.”
Do this every day and your subconscious will take on the instruction and start to carry it out.
Getting used to Stress.
Compete as much as you can. The more you are in the competition environment the more you will get used to it. Remember the competitive environment is a safe environment. Precision shooters are lovely people. They have been there as well and no one will think less of you for your end score. We have all made the flying shot under pressure. It is normal so don't come back from the line with your head down.
You will not be able to entirely eliminate stress. Use it to good advantage by learning to enjoy the feeling! You are alive and doing something most people would back out of because it is hard. After a while it starts to get addictive and you can start to feel more excited rather than scared or nervous.
Allow yourself to mentally scream and shout about what you are nervous of. Then take two breaths and give yourself a cuddle. Go back to your process and shoot a smooth shot now you have got it out of your system.
Have a mental routine to fall back on to keep your mind busy. Remember the conscious mind cannot focus on two things at a time so the more thoughts you can put in will help keep it occupied.
Training under Stress.
Devise ways to make your training duplicate the competition conditions. Make a bet with your training partner for a pound that you can shoot ten shots to a higher score than they can etc. Shoot with people watching you, tell them you are about to shoot ten shots for score, then when the shots are completed tell them what you have scored. Alternatively, email or text a friend or coach before you shoot for score, then email or text the result. All of this puts outcome pressure on you and is a good way to simulate competition.
Adjusting the Trigger.
This is very important and if nothing else you should make sure you know how to do this to your particular pistol - you need to be able to quickly adjust it if it fails the trigger weight test. I would very highly recommend you buy a proper ISSF trigger weight, Edinkillie Sports Services sells them online.
The trigger has three stages, First Stage, Second Stage and the Stop.
The first stage is the first movement of the trigger before it hits the second stage. It should be adjusted so it is a comfortable length and weight. Make sure it is not so heavy that you cannot define the second stage and trip the trigger accidentally.
Pistol manuals are not clear sometimes and the first stage can be referred to by different names. It is sometimes called the creep. If in doubt, ask! Some manuals even list the wrong screws to adjust! (Note some pistols have an easy to get to first stage weight adjustment screw, this can be really useful to get passed a trigger test just before a competition without having to remove the grip.)
The second stage is the trigger coming up to the sear or diode which will release the hammer and fire the pistol. It should be crisp, and of enough weight to lift the trigger test weight with a bit to spare for safety. Make sure when adjusting the second stage screw you take note of where it was and only turn it a little at a time.
The trigger stop is the travel after the pistol has released. It should allow some moment after the shot has fired.
(Note there will be a screw for adjusting the sear engagement. this should not be touched, and usually has red paint on it. if your pistol is going off after you cock it but not touched the trigger, you may need to adjust this screw. get some advice first.)
This discussion piece has been written by Nick Pye, Pistol Development Squad Co-ordinator and Coach (with thanks to Lanny Bassham, Ragnar Skanaker, Alan Goodall, Hugh Hunter, www.edinkillie.co.uk, Sonal Ramendra and Mark Joyce)